History
Frog Level, once a bustling commercial district, is seeing a revival
published May 1, 2008 12:15 am
Written by: Eddie Burnette
In 1884, Frog Level was “hopping,” having become a vital commercial center after the old Western North Carolina Railroad, on its journey west, laid the last ties and rails that would extend its length to Waynesville. Along its route, more convenient and efficient transportation was opening proverbial doors into the previously isolated area of WNC, spurring development where there had been none. It was Frog Level’s turn to grow.
Waynesville’s “downtown” area alongside Richland Creek, swampy land with a few scattered buildings, was transformed into a hustling, bustling center of commerce. “Uptown” is slightly elevated, running along the ridgeline of what was once called Mount Prospect and includes the county courthouse.
Already a destination for summerlong visitors seeking cooler atmospheres, Waynesville could offer tourists a more pleasant ride from the heat of the low country on as many as six passenger trains, a welcome alternative to long carriage rides over rough roads. An old photo shows women in long gowns and their families stepping from the train into waiting surreys to carry them to White Sulphur Springs and Eagle’s Nest hotels, Balsam and Piedmont inns and other lodging places.
A depot with a waiting room, loading ramp and long, covered platform had been constructed. Dewey Stovall Jr., 74, remembers its roof of orange Spanish tiles.
A gristmill, general stores, coal yards and a livery stable were some of the businesses that located in Frog Level in the early days. And more would come. Meals were served and rooms rented at the Suyeta Park Hotel, located on a rise above the railroad tracks.
The mill, powered by water diverted from Richland Creek, was first called Waynesville Milling Co., then Noland Mill. The stone foundation, which once supported the mill wheel, remains, although almost hidden by vegetation, as well as the millrace. Flour and cornmeal were sold in a general store operated by Mr. and Mrs. J.R. Carswell, who lived there with their eight children during the early 1920s.
Stovall, who continues to operate the family Waynesville Candy Co., lived nearby on Love Lane. Farmland once bordered Frog Level and Richland Creek, he says. He remembers the evening serenades, too, with frogs as musicians. “There was lots of chirping and peeping around here, especially when Richland Creek flooded in 1941,” he said.
A wealth of information, Stovall can walk, mentally, on Depot and Commerce streets and trace the history of each building — or now empty space — and name the businesses located in each through the years. R.L. Lee sold coal in the only rock building, painted white. Two doors up was The Taproom, a bar later known as the Longhorn Saloon. Around the corner was the Royal Café. The late Euel Taylor sold Buicks at his first car dealership in a structure no longer there. Stovall’s building was originally a general store owned by Suncrest Lumber Co. and its second floor was used as a boardinghouse. Grady Honeycutt operated a mobile grocery in a panel truck, selling door to door, particularly in outlying areas. A railroad spur ran behind businesses immediately bordering Richland Creek, making loading and unloading boxcars an easier job.
During the 1930s and ’40s, businesses included furniture stores, three coal yards, hardware stores, auto dealers, wholesale grocers, farm and garden suppliers, lumber companies, department stores, and food markets. Business was flourishing until automobiles forced a decline in rail service. The passenger train delivered its last human cargo in 1949, and the decline of Frog Level’s heyday began.
As businesses closed or sought locations with more foot traffic, the empty buildings and absence of people drew unsavory characters, and Frog Level was a place to be avoided at night, Stovall said.
But times are changing, and Frog Level, now designated a National Historic District, is experiencing an influx of new businesses. Upbeat young people who are excited by the historic district’s new life staff the attractive WNC Visitors Center down the street from Stovall’s.
This is the opinion of Edie Burnette, who writes a weekly features column for the Haywood County News. She can be reached at ediehb58@bellsouth.net.
